Teardown: A Generic 7-Port USB 3.0 Hub That Wasn't

Well, of course there is the "buy cheap, get trash, duh!" talking point. But if I pay more, who's to say I'll get a better product? The OEM or some middleman or whoever might just pocket the difference and push crap anyway. Well-known brands have done this as well, either intentionally or because they got shafted by their supplier as well.

My first thought whenever I come across such a badly-engineered no-name device is "oh great, another bad reference design which will poison the pool of all the available devices out there"

It helps a bit to spot and avoid that exact exterior design, but often those devices are designed to reuse the same mold as more-expensive ones and/or keep changing the design based on the purchasing customer.

So you end up on AliExpress looking at 5 identical hubs, but the cheapest one may have a different PCB inside.

Or you look at 5 different hubs, with all of them having the same PCB inside...

There's a lot of "USB 3.0 hubs" on the market that have only one 3.0 port, I went back and forth buying/returning a lot on Amazon before giving up on getting one that had all 3.0 ports.

I think that I have the same exact USB hub. I personally don't care about the USB 3.0 issue mentioned because it's only used to charge some devices. I think it's a controller charging station, a radio charging station, wireless charging station and a small device for rechargable batteries

Wow what an unexpectedly useful article! I have exactly this hub and wondered if I was imagining things. It absolutely has issues beyond that, for example I somehow managed to make a couple of ports unusable for micro-controller flashing even though they used to work just fine. For that price, it's an OK choice to low bandwidth stuff like periphery dongles and security keys, and the form-factor makes it easy to attach under desk or behind display. And buttons come in handy when you need to unpower a dev board. Anyone can recommend a similar shaped proper USB 3 hub off Ali?

The linked article on the same blog on building a tower of optical drives is also quite interesting: https://goughlui.com/2026/03/15/project-building-an-optical-...

I always think cables, hubs, and docks should be reliable ones even if they cost more

Otherwise they become the weakest links in your setup

I have one (ANKER IIRC?) that looks very much like this, but with two-position buttons that actually cut power, and USB3.0 level connection on all ports I tried. Also comes with the proper power supply for the barrel power connector. I suppose this one is a knock-off of mine :D

I think this was somewhat predictable. The USB cable from the hub is too long, and it's not thick enough. USB3 can also kick off a decent amount of heat, it's not a good sign when the case is in plastic.

If you're looking for a good USB3 hub, look for one with a short thick USB cable, metal chassis. If it has HDMI it's a good since because you're unlikely to pump that via USB2.

Whats always annoying is by using nested 4-port hub chips inside a hub with more than 4 ports you get very easily to the max nested depth limit (5). I have a monitor kvm switch that is also an usb hub. It itself only has two ports. Two usb hubs (that are internally nested) are plugged into those ports that I have at the back of my desk where all the HID are plugged in, but I also have a usb hub on the front of my desk so I can easily hotplugmy joysticks, yubikeys and usb flash drives.

Apparently that use case is very complicated with USB even in modern times :(

> This means a connected external power supply will backfeed the computer and that could be a recipe for damage to the port or the computer and is something we had known about causing issues over 20 years ago, yet we’ve still got designs with this issue today.

On the other hand it's useful for space constrained embedded projects. I got a small outdoor enclosure for a Pi Zero, to which two RTL-SDR sticks are attached - too much to supply via the Pi's USB-OTG power rail alone. With the Adafruit microUSB OTG hub [1], I now only have one power supply going into the hub that backfeeds the Pi Zero... one cable less.

[1] https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0DBMXCTRG

I used to have exactly one like that but without all the bogus 3.0 printing on it.

Not much to say about the article itself ("cheap stuff from AliExpress-or-its-Amazon-representatives isn't great, news at 11"), but just in case the author happens to be following comments here: I'm pretty sure the first photo shows your name, address and email in small print at the top?

$5 USD. What did you expect?

Always surprises me when people pay essentially nothing for a product and then complain about quality.

The linked article on the same blog on building a tower of optical drives is also quite interesting: https://goughlui.com/2026/03/15/project-building-an-optical-...

I always think cables, hubs, and docks should be reliable ones even if they cost more

Otherwise they become the weakest links in your setup

If you're looking for a good USB3 hub, look for one with a short thick USB cable, metal chassis. If it has HDMI it's a good since because you're unlikely to pump that via USB2.

Apparently that use case is very complicated with USB even in modern times :(

[1] https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0DBMXCTRG

I've definitely realized this in a couple of markets: Buy cheap, get trash. Buy expensive, get expensive trash with better marketing. Working with power tools from various brands has made me realize they all cheap out in the same ways. Plastic gears where there used to be metal, undersized motor drivers that fry themselves under sustained load, trigger switches that start misbehaving or die completely after a few months.

Also, all of the brands (cheap or expensive) will sometimes mess up the cost-cutting and make something reliable by accident. Buying cheap gives me more chances to get lucky in this way.

This has been a problem for a while. It's Akerloff "market for lemons" applied to technology. Sometimes however you gamble and win, discovering that the Chinese device actually is really good for the price. Occasionally even better, when you discover that some anti-feature like DRM is either not implemented or trivially turned off.

The other day my bicycle light gave out, so I took it apart - was not the most expensive option, but also not the cheapest.

It was advertised as having a 2600mAh battery, but when I opened it up, inside there was a 1700mAh cell. Also no sign of purported weatherproofing, as the lens was not even glued in.

I have a 2000mAh cell in the same form factor (approximately 500Wh/l, so believable) on its way from China, which makes me wonder how did they come up with that 2600mAh figure.

Whenever I get the same device from AliExpress and the local white label importers, even though the outside casing is identical, AliExpress option has always had more quality. Locally sold ones has always the crappier internals albeit they come in a box (versus AE ones come in a bag)

The stance ‘all hubs are trash’ has served me well.

My first thought whenever I come across such a badly-engineered no-name device is "oh great, another bad reference design which will poison the pool of all the available devices out there"

So you end up on AliExpress looking at 5 identical hubs, but the cheapest one may have a different PCB inside.

Or you look at 5 different hubs, with all of them having the same PCB inside...

"Ah, that's Rev. B, yeah, known problem..." Like I could somehow buy by PCB rev. Sometimes they even swap entire controllers within the same Rev.

There's a lot of "USB 3.0 hubs" on the market that have only one 3.0 port, I went back and forth buying/returning a lot on Amazon before giving up on getting one that had all 3.0 ports.

What do you recommend?

I had the opposite problem actually I think. I have these small nano teensy USB things that are programmable similar to Arduino, but they have a poor negotiation at start. I was using these to automate keyboard activity, so when plugged in they appear as a USB HID.

This crappy 7 port hub is one of the only ones that "works" to reprogram the chips over USB. Direct connections and other hubs cause it to always appear as a HID and never appear as a thing that can be reprogrammed.

I used to have exactly one like that but without all the bogus 3.0 printing on it.

What do you recommend?

The other day my bicycle light gave out, so I took it apart - was not the most expensive option, but also not the cheapest.

It was advertised as having a 2600mAh battery, but when I opened it up, inside there was a 1700mAh cell. Also no sign of purported weatherproofing, as the lens was not even glued in.

I have a 2000mAh cell in the same form factor (approximately 500Wh/l, so believable) on its way from China, which makes me wonder how did they come up with that 2600mAh figure.

"Ah, that's Rev. B, yeah, known problem..." Like I could somehow buy by PCB rev. Sometimes they even swap entire controllers within the same Rev.

It's actually the importer's info from the Chinese manufacturer, not the OP, since it's the switch packaging (it'd be inside the original package they'd have received from Aliexpress)

$5 USD. What did you expect?

Always surprises me when people pay essentially nothing for a product and then complain about quality.

Right? This is basically one small step away from stuff like “2TB usb stick for $20” scam listings on AliExpress. Of course it will be fake or crap. Cool tear down and write up though.

Marketed as a USB 2.0 hub with a single USB 3.0 port? When I last looked, typing truth via keyboards were free and valuable at the same time.

Would you say the same about a vendor selling rotten or spoiled food?

I would expect at any price point the seller should not be lying about the specs.

I mean yeah you get what you pay for. The main issue I think is false advertising; there's only so much you can do for foreign webshops, but if this were on e.g. Amazon, then Amazon should be pulled up on it (that is, huge fines so they don't do it again).

EU is cracking down on foreign webshops at least, setting rules for advertising, increasing import taxes to avoid flooding the local market with many individual packages that circumvent spot checks for basic electronic safety and (EM) emissions (what the FCC looks out for as well), etc.

The stance ‘all hubs are trash’ has served me well.

Also, all of the brands (cheap or expensive) will sometimes mess up the cost-cutting and make something reliable by accident. Buying cheap gives me more chances to get lucky in this way.

Marketed as a USB 2.0 hub with a single USB 3.0 port? When I last looked, typing truth via keyboards were free and valuable at the same time.

Right? This is basically one small step away from stuff like “2TB usb stick for $20” scam listings on AliExpress. Of course it will be fake or crap. Cool tear down and write up though.

I would expect at any price point the seller should not be lying about the specs.

It used to be that cheap android junk devices would just give you a root shell with "adb shell" - no need for root exploits or reflashing - while expensive devices would give you a locked down shell.

This is my favorite version of this dynamic, intentionally buying the crap because they cheaped out on the antifeatures.

I've generally found that the more expensive, branded USB C hubs are more trash than the cheap generics

I managed to get a couple of good ones. While they're more like docking stations, Kingston's, now discontinued, Nucleum and UGreen's wares are all good.

If you go higher level, of course there's Thunderbolt docks, but you can't make them cheaply, so they're generally good.

> I was using these to automate keyboard activity,

I’m interested.

It's actually the importer's info from the Chinese manufacturer, not the OP, since it's the switch packaging (it'd be inside the original package they'd have received from Aliexpress)

AliExpress shipping is wild.. as far as I understand it they try to find the cheapest place to send packages from, so (living in Europe) I've received packages from Australia and Azerbaijan. They probably send a palette of stuff to a country that has cheap International postage, and from there the palette of goods get broken down and packaged for the 1000s of end-consumers..

Would you say the same about a vendor selling rotten or spoiled food?

I've generally found that the more expensive, branded USB C hubs are more trash than the cheap generics

It used to be that cheap android junk devices would just give you a root shell with "adb shell" - no need for root exploits or reflashing - while expensive devices would give you a locked down shell.

This is my favorite version of this dynamic, intentionally buying the crap because they cheaped out on the antifeatures.

If it was 1/4 the normal price, I’d be suspicious.

I managed to get a couple of good ones. While they're more like docking stations, Kingston's, now discontinued, Nucleum and UGreen's wares are all good.

If you go higher level, of course there's Thunderbolt docks, but you can't make them cheaply, so they're generally good.

I've yet to come across truly reliable Thunderbolt 3 and above stations. Seems like every brand has, like this 7 port wonder in the article, lots of 5 star reviews. When you dig deep into the weeds of the reviews, Reddit, user forums, etc., you find the undercurrent of people who actually bother to check the stats reported by their OS, or have disconnect issues, etc, etc.

I'm somewhat sympathetic because from what I can tell engineering something capable of pushing that much data requires some exquisite engineering for every part of the process (chips on your computer, your computers port, your cables, the dock, the cable into the end device and the device and its port and chip). But still, they present these products like they're bulletproof.

It's possible I've had bad luck. A Caldigit TS3 had issues with dropping external drives and becoming unresponsive, then died after 2 years. Caldigit TS4 bricked itself after about a year. Got an OWC Thunderbolt Dock now and it just decides sometimes to stop communicating to anything new plugged in until you power cycle it.

> I was using these to automate keyboard activity,

I’m interested.

I was automatong pressing 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 in a loop with a knob to adjust the loop time. This was to protest Path of Exile potion management requiring you to constantly press that for hours near end game. Also, to be clear, this is not a good potion strategy in terms of being competitive, it's a survival mechanism.

You can check my own project doing the same. It's a one key keyboard that also can be set to jiggle the mouse a bit.

https://github.com/markomarkovic/nena-ilo-lili

If it was 1/4 the normal price, I’d be suspicious.

I regularly get addressed Aliexpress packages that contain multiple addressed packages (e.g. from the same order), so they may in fact be sending pallets full of packaged and addressed items to another country for re-packing and re-shipping

Yeah, I used to get stuff directly from China, then after the postage rate changes I was getting packages that had gone China -> Thailand -> Azerbaijan -> USA. Nowadays they seem to batch packages for the good shipping, from Aliexpress in China to (I assume) some US subsidiary, and then from there it gets parceled out to a shipping company seemingly at random (Maersk, Amazon, USPS).

You can check my own project doing the same. It's a one key keyboard that also can be set to jiggle the mouse a bit.

https://github.com/markomarkovic/nena-ilo-lili

I'm curios why go HW route versus programming a keeb/mouse/ahk macro? For example, that one time I had a build in Diablo 4 where I needed to constantly rotate abilities to maintain it, which I solved with a macro on repeat that was toggled on/off with a button press. Does PoE discourage macro/ahk use?

I use Dell Thunderbolt docks because that's what my employer gives us and as such I've collected a few of them. I've had zero issues with them. The only complaint is that the power button on the dock only seems to work with Dell laptops, not a huge issue since I don't think that's a typical feature anyway.

So the US had the USPS stop subsidizing Chinese postage rates... and they innovated to leverage subsidies elsewhere.

Just stop subsidizing international shipping period seems the smart play. If they want to undercut their own high-end domestic competition and destroy foreign competitors then they can at least pay fair rates.

It was kinf of a protest against the whole popcicle stick controversy in Path or Exile. People were getting banned for using macros and I wanted to demonstrate it was a pointless battle. Yes, ban botters and cheaters, but not for loops that reduce injury.

So the US had the USPS stop subsidizing Chinese postage rates... and they innovated to leverage subsidies elsewhere.

Which part of "send a giant box of stuff to the US using regular shipping channels and pay whatever duties and/or tariffs are due, sort it out into individual destinations once it gets there, and then deliver with USPS at regular domestic rates" involves this subsidy that you speak of?

The recent end-of-financial-year sales were rather interesting – I found myself spending a lot more time browsing AliExpress than I did Amazon or eBay this year which is something I wouldn’t have envisioned in the past. I suppose the deals offered by the others just weren’t that good. While AliExpress was dangling cashbacks and coupons, I decided to make the most of it and buy some things that I needed.

I felt like a USB 3.0 hub with a nice number of ports would be a good thing to aim for. After all, who doesn’t need more USB 3.0 ports nowadays? But alas, while I thought the world of hubs have long advanced far enough to mean that even your average product would be decent – I didn’t expect to receive what I received …

Unbagging

As with generic, low-cost items, this one arrived in a bag rather than a box.

There isn’t much to identify who made the product, with the only name seemingly being a difficult-to-track-down Shenzhen Lishi (or is that Lishl) Technology Co. Ltd.

The hub has a captive USB-A cable, seven ports with individual indicators and switches. There are no other inclusions.

The body of the unit is entirely plastic, so definitely not like the mostly-metal of my Simplecom CHU810 which I had used in my optical drive tower-of-power. Visually similar products but definitely quite different in reality.

There is a small barrel jack for external power input, but there is no labelling regarding the input requirements. No power supply comes with this particular unit, but I suspect other (more expensive) listings may come with one. This one was listed at just shy of US$5.

It’s very anonymous, without even any branding or specifications on the rear.

The USB-A connector has a blue tongue and USB 3.0 contacts, but the plastic seems to have some mould flash.

Teardown

I had a feeling this wasn’t a quality product, so I decided to embark on a teardown right-away. This hub has a screwless design, so prying around the edge allows the posts to slide out of their friction-fit receptacles.

We’re now in and things don’t look right!

Count the pins! Six ports with only four pins, meaning USB 2.0 at the best. Only the top port has the right number of pins for USB 3.0 – it would seem this is a choice to keep costs down and “pretend” to be a USB 3.0 hub. It’s basically a USB 3.0 extension cable (or splitter, like the one I built) with a hub attached on the USB 2.0 lines. The port buttons appear to be hardware disconnect for VBUS, but that won’t stop self-powered devices from connecting.

They seemed to economise on solder so much that the USB 2.0 ports had absolutely no soldering on the shell, required to mechanically support the port and prevent it from flexing. The USB 3.0 port had just enough on the edge, but didn’t fill the full plated-through-hole and thus, is not as strong as it could be. All bad news.

From the top, we are reminded just how all ports are blue, “pretend” USB 3.0.

The hub is made from two HS8836A chips which are four-port USB 2.0 hubs. These are bare-basic devices that are common amongst hobbyists because they require no additional external crystal, but they also don’t do anything with power monitoring or port control indications. Instead, the indicator LED is just connected in series with a resistor across the VBUS of the port. One of the big downsides of the hub is that it’s a single-transaction-translator (STT) type hub which means that all of the ports on the four port hub “share” the same USB 1.1 bandwidth, rather than each port having a full USB 1.1 bandwidth “upconverted” to USB 2.0 back to the host. This can be particularly useful for heavy bandwidth applications with many hobbyist microcontrollers that might only be USB 1.1.

The captive cable has no connector and is soldered directly down to holes on the board. I wonder what that would do for the signal integrity, especially for USB 3.0. The power connection, however, appears to be just commoned with the external port without use of the jack’s internal switch. This means a connected external power supply will backfeed the computer and that could be a recipe for damage to the port or the computer and is something we had known about causing issues over 20 years ago, yet we’ve still got designs with this issue today. Spaces for capacitors for a bit of local bypassing? Bypassed to save money.

Three contacts on the jack, two of them commoned to a ground plane, the middle into a trace on the top-layer – a confirmation that the internal switch inside the jack is not being used.

Connected to a PC

While the product isn’t well built, at least it was detected by a computer when connected. Alas, it is detected as two USB 2.0 four-port hubs “stacked” on the first port – the “modern” way to build a 7-port hub. But they are USB 2.0 hubs … with the USB 3.0 lines wired through to the first port.

Conclusion

I usually do a decent job vetting the online shopping listings before purchasing. As a savvy consumer, I think I can “work out the lies” in the listing and pick the good ones. But alas, it seems the deception has grown so deep that it’s difficult to know and I suspect many purchasers that left good reviews didn’t even realise that they had been duped.

I should’ve known better than to trust a listing that was very clearly selling this product as a 7-port USB 3.0 hub. I should’ve known better than to trust the blue-coloured ports and the 4.7/5 ratings out of over 600 reviews. In the end, I basically got myself a device that extends one USB 3.0 port and hubs together six additional USB 2.0 devices. That was definitely not what I had intended. Add to this the mild danger of back-feeding your computer if an external power source is plugged in and absolutely zero power protections on any port, making this a mildly dangerous device (in terms of causing damage to other devices). The build quality is flimsy with solder economised to the point of not even bothering with the mechanical shell of the connector leading to ports “flexing” on every insertion-removal cycle. The world of USB-compatible devices is quite wild and while it might “sort-of” work, it also adds insult to injury by using cheaper single-transaction-translator (STT) hub chips.

As far as I can tell, a USB 3.0 hub shouldn’t be an expensive device given just how long they’ve been on the market for … so why are the good locally sold products so expensive? I wonder if any of them are truly as compliant as some of my older hubs were – I suspect many decent-branded hubs might not have per-port power monitoring nowadays.

But I guess this piece of equipment will have to stay with me. It’s going to take too much effort to send it back even if postage is free, with the risk of invalidating cashbacks that might end up costing me more. To say I am a bit miffed would be an understatement.

Appendix: USBTreeView Dump

The following is the data given by USBTreeView on the hub device.

=========================== USB Port3 ===========================

Connection Status : 0x01 (Device is connected) Port Chain : 1-3 Properties : 0x01 IsUserConnectable : yes PortIsDebugCapable : no PortHasMultiCompanions : no PortConnectorIsTypeC : no ConnectionIndex : 0x03 (Port 3) CompanionIndex : 0 CompanionHubSymLnk : USB#ROOT_HUB30#4&eced7c4&0&0#{f18a0e88-c30c-11d0-8815-00a0c906bed8} CompanionPortNumber : 0x0D (Port 13) -> CompanionPortChain : 1-13

  ========================== Summary =========================

Vendor ID : 0x214B (AMECO TECHNOLOGIES (SHENZHEN) CO., LTD.) Product ID : 0x7260 Manufacturer String : --- Product String : "USB2.0 HUB" Serial : --- USB Version : 2.0 (480 Mbit/s) Port maximum Speed : High-Speed (Companion Port 1-13 is doing the SuperSpeed) Device maximum Speed : High-Speed Device Connection Speed : High-Speed Self powered : yes Demanded Current : 100 mA Used Endpoints : 2

  ========================== USB Hub =========================

Hub Symbolic Link : USB#VID_214B&PID_7260#5&d714b9&0&3#{f18a0e88-c30c-11d0-8815-00a0c906bed8}

    +++++++++++++++++ Device Information ++++++++++++++++++

Device Description : Generic USB Hub BusReported Device Desc : USB2.0 HUB Device Path : \\?\USB#VID_214B&PID_7260#5&d714b9&0&3#{f18a0e88-c30c-11d0-8815-00a0c906bed8} (GUID_DEVINTERFACE_USB_HUB) Kernel Name : \Device\USBPDO-5 Device ID : USB\VID_214B&PID_7260\5&D714B9&0&3 Hardware IDs : USB\VID_214B&PID_7260&REV_0100 USB\VID_214B&PID_7260 Driver KeyName : {36fc9e60-c465-11cf-8056-444553540000}\0029 (GUID_DEVCLASS_USB) Driver : \SystemRoot\System32\drivers\UsbHub3.sys (Version: 10.0.26100.8521 Date: 2026-06-10 Company: Microsoft Corporation) Driver Inf : C:\WINDOWS\inf\usbhub3.inf Legacy BusType : PNPBus Class : USB Class GUID : {36fc9e60-c465-11cf-8056-444553540000} (GUID_DEVCLASS_USB) Service : USBHUB3 Enumerator : USB Location Info : Port_#0003.Hub_#0002 Address : 3 Location IDs : PCIROOT(0)#PCI(1400)#USBROOT(0)#USB(3), ACPI(_SB_)#ACPI(PC00)#ACPI(XHCI)#ACPI(RHUB)#ACPI(HS03) Container ID : {c2780d0e-7689-11f1-921d-40d133f4e3da} Manufacturer Info : (Standard USB HUBs) Capabilities : 0x84 (Removable, SurpriseRemovalOK) Status : 0x0180600A (DN_DRIVER_LOADED, DN_STARTED, DN_DISABLEABLE, DN_REMOVABLE, DN_NT_ENUMERATOR, DN_NT_DRIVER) First Install Date : 2026-07-03 13:00:40 Last Arrival Date : 2026-07-03 13:00:39 EnhancedPowerMgmtEnabled : 0 IdleInWorkingState : 1 Power State : D0 (supported: D0, D1, D2, D3, wake from D0, wake from D1, wake from D2)

    +++++++++++++++++ Registry USB Flags +++++++++++++++++

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\usbflags\214B72600100 osvc : REG_BINARY 00 00

    ------------------- USB Hub Descriptor -----------------

bDescriptorLength : 0x09 (9 bytes) bDescriptorType : 0x29 (Hub Descriptor) bNumberOfPorts : 0x04 (4 Ports) wHubCharacteristics : 0x00E0 Power switching : Ganged Compound device : No Over-current protection : Global TT Think Time : At most 32 FS bit times Port Indicators : Supported bPowerOnToPowerGood : 0x32 (100 ms) bHubControlCurrent : 0x64 (100 mA) DeviceRemovable : 0x00 Bit 0 : 0 (reserved, any value) Bit 1 : 0 (Device at Port 1 is removable) Bit 2 : 0 (Device at Port 2 is removable) Bit 3 : 0 (Device at Port 3 is removable) Bit 4 : 0 (Device at Port 4 is removable) Bit 5 : 0 (unused, must be 0) Bit 6 : 0 (unused, must be 0) Bit 7 : 0 (unused, must be 0) PowerControlMask : 0xFF HubIsBusPowered : 0x00 (Self Powered)

  ---------------- Extended USB Hub Descriptor ---------------

HubType : 0x02 (Usb20Hub - hub descriptor is defined in USB 2.0 and 1.1 specifications) HighestPortNumber : 0x04 (Port 4 is the highest) UsbHubDescriptor : identical with "USB Hub Descriptor" shown above

    ----------------- USB Hub Capabilities ----------------

HubIs2xCapable : 1 (Is 2.x capable)

    --------------- USB Hub Capabilities Ex ---------------

HighSpeedCapable : 1 (Yes) HighSpeed : 1 (Yes) MultiTtCapable : 0 (No) HubIsMultiTt : 0 (No) ArmedWakeOnConnect : 0 (No) IsBusPowered : 0 (No) IsRoot : 0 (No)

    ---------------- Connection Information ---------------

Connection Index : 0x03 (Port 3) Connection Status : 0x01 (DeviceConnected) Current Config Value : 0x01 (Configuration 1) Device Address : 0x04 (4) Is Hub : 0x01 (yes) Device Bus Speed : 0x02 (High-Speed) Number of open Pipes : 0x01 (1 pipe to data endpoints) Pipe[0] : EndpointID=1 Direction=IN ScheduleOffset=0 Type=Interrupt wMaxPacketSize=0x01 bInterval=12 -> 1040 Bits/ms = 130000 Bytes/s

    --------------- Connection Information V2 -------------

Connection Index : 0x03 (3) Length : 0x10 (16 bytes) SupportedUsbProtocols : 0x03 Usb110 : 1 (yes, port supports USB 1.1) Usb200 : 1 (yes, port supports USB 2.0) Usb300 : 0 (no, port not supports USB 3.0) -> but Companion Port 1-13 does ReservedMBZ : 0x00 Flags : 0x00 DevIsOpAtSsOrHigher : 0 (Device is not operating at SuperSpeed or higher) DevIsSsCapOrHigher : 0 (Device is not SuperSpeed capable or higher) DevIsOpAtSsPlusOrHigher : 0 (Device is not operating at SuperSpeedPlus or higher) DevIsSsPlusCapOrHigher : 0 (Device is not SuperSpeedPlus capable or higher) ReservedMBZ : 0x00

---------------------- Device Descriptor ----------------------

bLength : 0x12 (18 bytes) bDescriptorType : 0x01 (Device Descriptor) bcdUSB : 0x200 (USB Version 2.0) bDeviceClass : 0x09 (Hub) bDeviceSubClass : 0x00 bDeviceProtocol : 0x01 (Hi-speed hub with single TT) bMaxPacketSize0 : 0x40 (64 bytes) idVendor : 0x214B (AMECO TECHNOLOGIES (SHENZHEN) CO., LTD.) idProduct : 0x7260 bcdDevice : 0x0100 iManufacturer : 0x00 (No String Descriptor) iProduct : 0x01 (String Descriptor 1) *!*ERROR String descriptor not found iSerialNumber : 0x00 (No String Descriptor) bNumConfigurations : 0x01 (1 Configuration)

------------------ Configuration Descriptor -------------------

bLength : 0x09 (9 bytes) bDescriptorType : 0x02 (Configuration Descriptor) wTotalLength : 0x0019 (25 bytes) bNumInterfaces : 0x01 (1 Interface) bConfigurationValue : 0x01 (Configuration 1) iConfiguration : 0x00 (No String Descriptor) bmAttributes : 0xE0 D7: Reserved, set 1 : 0x01 D6: Self Powered : 0x01 (yes) D5: Remote Wakeup : 0x01 (yes) D4..0: Reserved, set 0 : 0x00 MaxPower : 0x32 (100 mA)

    ---------------- Interface Descriptor -----------------

bLength : 0x09 (9 bytes) bDescriptorType : 0x04 (Interface Descriptor) bInterfaceNumber : 0x00 (Interface 0) bAlternateSetting : 0x00 bNumEndpoints : 0x01 (1 Endpoint) bInterfaceClass : 0x09 (Hub) bInterfaceSubClass : 0x00 bInterfaceProtocol : 0x00 iInterface : 0x00 (No String Descriptor)

    ----------------- Endpoint Descriptor -----------------

bLength : 0x07 (7 bytes) bDescriptorType : 0x05 (Endpoint Descriptor) bEndpointAddress : 0x81 (Direction=IN EndpointID=1) bmAttributes : 0x03 (TransferType=Interrupt) wMaxPacketSize : 0x0001 Bits 15..13 : 0x00 (reserved, must be zero) Bits 12..11 : 0x00 (0 additional transactions per microframe -> allows 1..1024 bytes per packet) Bits 10..0 : 0x01 (1 byte per packet) bInterval : 0x0C (2048 microframes -> 256 ms)

--------- Device Qualifier Descriptor (for Full-Speed) --------

bLength : 0x0A (10 bytes) bDescriptorType : 0x06 (Device_qualifier Descriptor) bcdUSB : 0x200 (USB Version 2.0) bDeviceClass : 0x09 (Hub) bDeviceSubClass : 0x00 bDeviceProtocol : 0x00 (Hi-speed hub without TT) bMaxPacketSize0 : 0x40 (64 Bytes) bNumConfigurations : 0x01 (1 other-speed configuration) bReserved : 0x00

------------ Other Speed Configuration Descriptor -------------

bLength : 0x09 (9 bytes) bDescriptorType : 0x07 (Other_speed_configuration Descriptor) wTotalLength : 0x0019 (25 bytes) bNumInterfaces : 0x01 (1 Interface) bConfigurationValue : 0x01 (Configuration 1) iConfiguration : 0x00 (No String Descriptor) bmAttributes : 0xE0 D7: Reserved, set 1 : 0x01 D6: Self Powered : 0x01 (yes) D5: Remote Wakeup : 0x01 (yes) D4..0: Reserved, set 0 : 0x00 MaxPower : 0x32 (100 mA)

    ---------------- Interface Descriptor -----------------

    ----------------- Endpoint Descriptor -----------------

  -------------------- String Descriptors -------------------

none

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